Dystopian Beers for ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’

Whether you’re all caught up with season 4’s new episodes or are only just now getting acquainted with the nightmarish dystopia of Gilead, these beer pairings can help smooth out the ride. 

The Show: Dystopian future drama / 2017-present / MGM – Hulu

The Beers: Dystopian in name only — If the future is filled with brews like this, it might be more of a utopia!

“Paranoid poppycock — just like the book.”

That’s a real quote from Owen Gleiberman’s review of The Handmaid’s Tale, published in Entertainment Weekly. Gleiberman wasn’t alone in his criticism either. John Simon of National Review labeled it “”inept and annoying,” while Roger Ebert doled out 2 out of 4 stars and said he was he was “not sure exactly” what message was. Janet Maslin of The New York Times was meanwhile more positive, calling the plot “shrewd if preposterous.”

Only this was all back in 1990, and The Handmaid’s Tale rendition being reviewed was director Volker Schlöndorff’s adaptation of Margaret Atwood’s 1985 novel. Starring Natasha Richardson as the oppressed heroine Offred, the movie received a remarkably cool reception compared to Hulu’s TV adaptation, now in its fourth season and one of the streaming giant’s top-rated original shows.

Granted, the show is considerably different in many ways. In addition to just having more runtime to flesh out Gilead and give more context to the narrative, it benefits from June / Offred’s (Elizabeth Moss) voiceover narration. For the record, Atwood says Richardson did push for her character’s narration to be included in the movie but was unsuccessful.

But it’s worth noting another key difference that could explain why the movie failed and the show succeeded — the world simply changed in the three decades between them. Back in 1990, the concept of the American government suddenly transforming into an ultra-conservative, devoutly Biblical patriarchy wasn’t realistic. No so-called “leader of the free world” had been elected in spite of being caught on tape saying “don’t even wait” for a woman’s consent, to grab women “by the p***y.” Such ideas then would have acceptably been “paranoid poppycock.”

Needless to say, by the time Hulu rolled out The Handmaid’s Tale in 2017, the world was more receptive to its message.

On a much happier note, the show’s already been renewed for a fifth season, so Atwood’s grim future continues to get the attention it deserves. Whether you’re among the show’s many fans or are only just now getting sucked into its gripping story, it’s tough to look away. So while you’re at it, here are some on-theme beers fit for pairing with Gilead’s dystopia!

Barrel-Aged Dystopia – Greenbush Brewing Co.

As dark and complex as the show’s plot, this 9.5% ABV Russian Imperial Stout is ideal for sipping when you find yourself up late with an episode around midnight. Michigan’s Greenbush Brewing aged it in whiskey barrels, wrapping the brew’s natural mocha-rich flavors in notes of oaky caramel and vanilla.

By the way, the plot trips over some of its own complexity now in The Handmaid’s Tale fourth season, but the characters are as watchable as ever.

The Death of Civilization in Slow Motion – Adroit Theory

These Virginia nanobrewers are renowned for their intense brews with equally intense names. Now on its fifth iteration, The Death of Civilization in Slow Motion is an 8% ABV Imperial IPA, double dry-hopped with citra, azacca, el dorado and mosaic. Expect lush notes of tangerine, grapefruit and pineapple with this sipper, with just a bit of bitterness on the finish to remind you of its morbid future predictions.

The Future is Hazy – Stemma Brewing Co.

Red cloaks and white bonnets most likely aren’t in our future, but we still don’t know what’s coming. While mulling over the possibilities, this Hazy IPA from Washington’s Stemma Brewing offers some juicy respite with notes of candied citrus and stone fruit. In addition to cashmere it’s brewed with zamba hops too, which are new to the scene and quickly growing in popularity. So if you want a taste of future IPAs, this is it!

Dystopia – Grains of Wrath

They don’t show the West Coast on The Handmaid’s Tale, but the way it’s talked about, it sounds like things aren’t going so good. So, raise a toast to the good ol’ days with this West Coast IPA from Washington’s Grains of Wrath. It clocks in at 6.8% and brims with resinous pine, a fitting reminder of all those trees of the past (for the record, it seems there’s a ton of trees remaining in June’s Eastern Gilead world).

The Future Freaks Me Stout – Swinging Bridge Brewing Co.

Yes, the future freaks us out too. Let’s drink about it! Coming from Wisconsin’s Swinging Bridge, this oatmeal stout’s surprisingly easygoing with a 5.3% ABV, but it’s packing tons of thick, roasty coffee flavor. Perfect for when you want to kick back with brew that matches the show’s heaviness but don’t want to feel buzzed by the end.

New episodes of The Handmaid’s Tale drop every Wednesday on Hulu.